Pocket Squares : What reason does a man wear one and how is it worn?
I am often asked what are pocket squares, how are they different from handkerchiefs, what reason does a man wear one and how is it worn?
As a proper gentleman my father always carries a white linen or cotton handkerchief in his trouser pocket. Aside from blowing his nose, they have probably come in handy over the years in dozens of uses from spills to blood to tears.
When a hankerchief is used as an accessory to a suit, it becomes known as a pocket square. The material can still be the neatly folded cotton "hankie" or an Hermes silk paisley pouf. There are four types of messages sent by a pocket square.
1. Fabric: White cotton or linen is traditional. It is always worn in a very crisp manner, folded into points or plainly across. It needs to "match" nothing, and is a stand alone visual detail. Colored cotton can be used in the same fashion, but with a summer cotton or linen suit. When the fabric is silk there are more options. A simple fold is acceptable, but there are many other looser options. Silk is no more formal than linen, but it is more creative, and can carry more visual energy.
2. Fold: The Ashley and Seon Clothiers website has detailed step by step instructions of a dozen pocket square folds - very informative. Here are the most common.
The Presidential is the simplest, almost austere fold. It is also the most conservative and well suited for a man in a fiduciary position.
Pointed pocket squares can be of linen or silk and of two, three, even four points. The points must be absolutely perfect, and the subliminal message is exacting attention to detail. And the more points, the more strong the message.
Poufed pocket squares are silk only. They give a business suit a softer, even feminine or romantic look - this is not "bad" for a man - it can be a way to relax or disarm his business opponent. It is also an easy way to transform a work day suit to a social or date suit after work.
3. The size of what's showing. No surprise here - the more that sticks out the more dramatic (hey - look at me!) the look becomes. C
ompare this image to the pointed one above. Which one feels more "business"? Which one more aggressive?
4. Color: The most common way to wear a pocket square is to connect it with the tie. It can be a very solid connection such as this purple square and purple tie, or it can just touch on an element of the tie, shirt color or suit color. To achieve visual harmony, some element should connect it to something else.
When the color is significantly different than either the tie or the suit be
hind it, the drama increases. Appropriate for a party, or a business environment where drama is seen as a good thing.
Any way you choose to wear a pocket square, I encourage you to try it. It is an inexpensive way to add a little flair to your attire.
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