How To Build A White Board Stand
Dry erase white board stands at the office supply store sell for $95 plus tax. I found all the materials needed to achieve the same result for $8.16 at the do it yourself store. For organizing your thoughts and making presentations, erasable whiteboard dry erase boards are perfect, but if you don't have a wall to which you permanently attach it, you'll want to have a sturdy and attractive stand or support easel for it.
You can easily build one for a savings of around $90.
Ask for three eight foot lengths of 1x2 knotty pine. When I looked they sold for $.99 each. Go for pieces that are straight with at least one good edge which you will face toward the front. Have the lumber department cut them to a height of your choosing. Just under six feet seems to work well. Save the cut off pieces for use later as side supports for the board.
Use a can of metallic spray paint to finish the raw lumber prior to assembly. One can is plenty and you will have enough left over to touch up after the stand is assembled to improve the appearance even more. If you layer on the spray paint thickly enough it almost looks like aluminum.
Hardware needs are very simple. Just get a quarter inch machine screw to fasten the legs at the top and four number eight sheet metal screws to hold the small side pegs. Also include a nut and two washers for the machine screw. Three inch length should be just right for the machine screw and inch and a half for the sheet metal screws.
Drill a quarter inch hole near the top of the piece you select for the center leg, and then drill three eighth inch holes near the top of the two side legs so they can be angled outward. Install the washers and nut. I used a drop of thread sealant on the nut just to help keep it from loosening over time.
Set your own preference for whiteboard height. Eye level seemed right to me. Measure down the height of the board for the side support locations, then mark and drill pilot holes to assist in driving the fasteners straight in. Use three and a half inch length for the supports with inch and a half number eight sheet metal screws.
Since you're using cheap lumber, be careful not to let it split. If there's any cupping, place the cupped side up before fastening.
To collapse the legs, add hinges, facing out. If you are going to use the stand on hardwood floors, add some duct tape adhesive side out to help grip.
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