Bomkai Silk Sarees from Sonepur Cluster
Sonepur cluster concentrates on the manufacturing of tie & dye and Bomkai designs in a saree. This cluster makes plain cotton sarees, simple silk sarees with Bomkai designs together with dress materials for women.
Introduction
Sonepur lies in the western zone of Orissa. This cluster is renowned for its unique Bomkai patterns also known as 'Bandha'. The Bomkai pattern is created by Jala technique on the fabric. The weaving practice has been very old and historic and contains traces from as old as 600 B.C. The designs are inspired from the caves of 'Khandagiri'. The cluster is dedicated completely towards silk weaving with Bomkai patterns.
Sonepur handloom cluster had started focusing on silk weaving especially the Bomkai design in the late 1980s. It is famous for its weaving because of the production without using any extra machinery like Jacquard and Dobby. In the Bomkai patterns, both the warp and the weft are coloured in different combinations. On the borders, warp alone is processed, while for Palavas and Anchal of sarees, weft is processed and overall saree designs, both the warp and weft are processed.
In the earlier days, the weavers here not just made use of cotton yarn but Tassar silk, wool and lotus stalks were also used. During 14th Century, Sri. Ramai Dev used to reign in Patnagarh, where he relocated 100 weavers from M.P who initiated Tie and Dye weaving in Orissa. The caste of those weavers is known as Bhulia. Orissa used to export handloom to south-east Asian regions like Thailand, Java, Borrneo and Sumatra in pre-independence epoch by the way of sea.
The production method of the Sonepur Handloom Cluster comprises of three methods. They are:
• Independent weavers
• Master weavers and traders and
• Cooperative weavers
Independent weavers: They bear all the expenses from the starting till the end. Right from procurement of raw materials to weaving till the selling, he is the main actor. His sales and productivity depends completely on local marketing conditions and due to escalating buyers' mores, and frequently changing tastes and preferences for garments amid the customers , the individual weaver is bound to depend on traders and dealers to sell his goods. This dependency forces to satisfy him with a very marginal profit or sometimes may be making losses.
Master Weavers: Master Weavers look after the marketing of the products keeping the weavers completely away. Raw materials are provided to the weavers for production and wages are paid to them for the cloth they produce. Although master weavers completely take charge of all the whereabouts of the selling part and weavers do not have to bother for the same, still there is the monopoly of the master weavers wherein they can anytime fling away the weavers in adverse market conditions.
Co-operative Societies: In order to stand the contest from the power looms and composite mills and to minimize the exploitation of the weavers by the master weavers, the government has strengthened the encouragement of weavers co-operative societies. These societies provide a common platform to all the weavers and to offer membership at a very nominal share with subsidy from the government. They supply fiber and yarn to weavers for manufacturing cloth according to the requirement, procure ready goods from them, pay them their wages and make appropriate arrangements for selling those goods. The members have a share in the earnings of the society and get bonus in proportion to their output of cloth.
Questions and Answers
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