The Real Perfume Creators Are the Great Artisan Noses
by: Geoff Ficke
The stunning growth of the high-end luxury perfume business in the last two decades has been centered in the celebrity endorser, designer category. Actresses, athletes, models and fashion designers have introduced dozens of new scents; each seeking to lure consumers based on the aura created by the endorsing personality.
Whether you admire Michael Jordan’s basketball skills, Narciso Rodriguez’ modernist Spanish designs or Jennifer Lopez’ singing or acting talents, the marketers of these fragrance brands seek to profit from the perceived lifestyle allure of their licensee’s. What very few people realize is that branded fragrances are rarely, if ever, actually created by the endorser.
The perfume industry is a multi-billion dollar international enterprise. The marketers of branded fragrance products, however, rarely, if ever, develop and produce their own scents. This is a specialty business handled by large essential oil houses like IFF, Robertet, and Givaudan. These companies not only formulate scents, but they harvest and source the flora, fauna and the exotic natural ingredients that provide the base for their fragrances. Many of these biologically diverse plants and animal by-products are rare, expensive and fragile, requiring a great deal of special handling and knowledge.
An example is the whale by-product ambergris. Whales are not harvested to obtain ambergris. This is skimmed from the surface of the ocean, above swimming pods of whales, Ambergris is simply whale vomit. It is exceedingly valuable and crucial as a component in many exotic scent bases.
The high cost of perfume is attributed to the expense of obtaining essential oils from rare and expensive plants. Rare orchids can yield only a few drops of oil per plant harvested and processed. The processing of essential oils is its own industry.
Companies like Estee Lauder, Elizabeth Arden and Lancome do not produce any of their own fragrances. They typically meet with perfume houses such as Givaudan, provide guidance as to their desired scent direction, and then await and evaluate submissions from the integrated houses chosen to bid on the project. Once a favored prototype scent is chosen then the perfume house is contracted to perfect the scent and produce the oils.
The creation of perfume is part science, part marketing, part branding, and a whole lot of art. The art of designing unique, commercial fragrances is entrusted to the “nose” retained by the perfume house. “Noses” are rare, coddled, gifted and possess a talent so unusual that there are only a few recognized “noses” in the world at any given time.
I have had the good fortune to work with one of the greatest, most successful “noses” of the second half of the 20th century. Francis Camail is a legend in the world of creative perfumery. The list of his achievements is stunning. Watching and experiencing his work is to view the efforts of a “master”.
Mr. Camail, working from his laboratory in Grasse, France has been the creative genius behind Annick Goutal, Revlon’s Charlie (at one time the most popular scent in the world), Giorgio (the most profitable brand of the 1980’s), Estee Lauder’s Aliage, Eternity (Calvin Klein), Ivoire (Pierre Balmain) and Bond #9. These are only a few of the brands that have germinated from his ability to create scents that consumer’s desire and loyally purchase on a repeat basis.
Mr. Camail is unique in that he is an independent contractor hired out by large, international perfume houses on a per job contract basis. His reputation is so powerful that he has the ability to be exceedingly selective in the clients he chooses to work with. To view the process he utilizes to layer, build and nurture various top notes, dry notes and a final bouquet is to experience a true artisan master at work.
The creative process necessary to produce luxury perfumery is an old-world, artisan craftsman skill that can not be taught. Francis Camail does employ assistants and interns, as do most other “noses”. However, very few of them, if any, ever go on to successfully conquer the mystical world of exotic fragrance. His skills are apparently God given.
In a world of mass production and industrialization, it is reassuring to know that skills such as those provided by perfumery “noses” are still extant, and essential. The world still has nooks and crannies that appreciate and value craft and artisan skills and abilities.
Questions and Answers
Article Tags:
entrepreneurs
,marketing
,marketing consulting
,marketing consultants
,business plans
,marketing strategies
,organizing your business
,business structures
Creating a business plan is something anyone can do, even if you don’t know anything about business or finances. This article has information to help create a car wash business plan.
Business planning in a predatory, competitive environment is critical to success. A business plan that is prepared by the employees and the owner provides a comprehensive look at the goals for growth and the processes to achieve them.
The report examines the introduction of never seen before product called the ‘Hollywood Star'. The product is a toy designed for children between the ages of 8-13. It will generate a lot of buzz in the industry because no toy has been able to fulfill all the functions that this product can. The product consists of a DVD containing episodes of children's favorite cartoons like Spiderman and Simpson's.
Summary: Business plan is necessary when seeking a business loan or speculation funds. Shareholders and loan officials need to know what a business owner hopes to achieve and the steps he or she plans to take to convene goals.
Marketing communication functions within a marketing framework. Traditionally known as the promotional element of the four Ps of marketing (product, place, price, and promotion), the primary goal of marketing communication is to reach a defined audience to affect its behavior by informing, persuading, and reminding. Marketing communication acquires new customers for brands by building awareness and encouraging trial. Marketing communication also maintains a brand's current customer base.
I recommend any new entrepreneur seek consultation with an attorney familiar with the laws and regulations of the state, county, city or township of your residence. Even if you are planning to run your enterprise as a sole proprietorship, there are local zoning laws, restrictions on business activity, public announcement requirements, DBA (Doing Business As), fictitious name ordinances, etc. Do not try to avoid the pesky forms and filings required in most localities.
80% of people do not know how to apply perfume correctly. This article gives some good advise on how, when and what are the best places on your body to apply perfume.
Yes, here I am talking about eyelash serums that have now seen as one of the most popular products when it comes to getting thicker, long and nice looking eyelashes.
You will get the best discount on branded perfume in this perfume market which is also known by the name Discount perfume. This market will allow the customers all the products at low cost than the market price and also offers low prices on designer cosmetics and fragrances. Perfume market is the leading and famous distributor of all branded products to all its wholesalers and retailers who want to purchase the goods in bulk at low prices less than the market rate and then offered to general pu
Women Deodorants are easily available not just in the retail store but are also present on many online shopping portals.
Mascaras come in a variety of colors, and depending on your eye color and makeup palate, colored mascaras can be an easy and inexpensive way to really amp up your makeup!
A Managing Consultant should be able to take a project from idea or concept stage, to market launch. The capacity to manage product development, prototype and product design work, source manufacturing, and organize logistics, create customized Marketing Strategies, handle Public Relations, produce creative elements, packaging design, develop funding possibilities, and Sales Models are only a few of the work product elements that successful Managing Consultants should be able to provide.
Sourcing and Defining Volume Pricing Is an Absolute Must for Aspiring Consumer Product Entrepreneurs
Short run, hobby business-like volumes represent a distortion of the Sales Model. Unless the entrepreneur wishes to operate a low volume artisanal business it is vitally important to find the best sources of supply and manufacturing and to develop the accurate cost of mass production in hand with the chosen supplier.
Brand Extension is a technique that we have practiced on our products and for client Consumer Product brands for many years. It is a wonderful way to grow a mature business. But remember, the Brand Extension must make sense to your most important asset, your customers and clients. Do no harm!
The process of starting a business or launching a Consumer Product is arduous. There is a reason for this. If it was easy everyone would be doing it and they are most certainly not. The difficulties inherent in getting a product off the ground act to cull the marketplace and serves as a type of Merchandising Darwinism. Merchants, distributors, investors, venture capital, strategic alliances and partners all seek out projects that survive the development process.
I am often asked by media interviewers, prospective entrepreneurs and college students I mentor to identify the most important qualities that are present in successful small business start-up owners and innovators. Obviously there are many personality traits that contribute to success in every sort of endeavor. Honesty, hard work, creativity and a positive mental attitude are only a few. However, I think that there are five traits that are essential keys to achieving entrepreneurial success.
Discuss this Article
