Your Silver Clay Project Will Be Flawless With These Tips

Silver clay? Whatever is that?

Silver clay, precious metal clay, art metal clay, and art clay silver are all different terms and types of "clay" that may be magically turned into gold and silver.

These innovative metal clays were introduced to the North American market in the nineties. Jewelry enthusiasts and hobbyists can now shape and mold precious metal as easily as clay.

Making jewelry naturally has a long history. The difference today is that you now do not have to bang or cast your metal to make jewellery if you don't wish to. Silver clay now makes it feasible to make real metal forms without these traditional methods.

Here is how metal clay functions. Art metal clays are composed of fine metal particles suspended in an organic binder. This binder lets you mould and shape the clay as you would potter's clay. When you are happy with the form, you let your project dry for no less than twenty-four hours ( or even more ). You then fire it in a kiln or by employing a hand torch. The binder burns away, leaving the fused metal behind in the shape you formed it.

Before you grab a lump of silver clay and go at it though, you will need to keep 1 or 2 rules under consideration. Silver clay isn't cheap, so you don't want to waste it.

Silver Clay Tips

Here are a bunch of tips for working with silver clay :

*Metal clays shrink 10-30% when fired. Be sure to check your package for shrinkage levels particularly if you are making rings or other objects that must be exact fits.

*Not all metal clays can be hand torch fired. If you won't be employing a kiln be certain to check that your kind of silver clay is "low fire".

*Only small pieces should be torch fired. Pieces bigger than 25g should be kiln fired.

*Silver clay is expensive. The gold version especially is very high-priced. Be certain to shop carefully and follow instructions carefully so you don't burn your money fruitlessly.

*Metal Clay simply takes on impressions of other objects ( and fingerprints too ). Experiment with different textures and objects to make imprints onto the wet clay.

*Gemstones that may stand up to the heat of firing can be set into the wet clay.

*Be sure to let your metal clay dry fully before firing. Firing damp clay won't work and you will not be a happy camper.

*Metal clays are sticky to the touch so be sure to coat everything with a thin film of olive oil or other release agent. This suggests coat your hands, your tools, and work surface. Just a touch of oil will do, so don't go too far.

*You can improve drying time by placing your piece in a low heat stove. ( 150-200 degrees fahrenheit ). Pieces finely than your palm usually take approximately twenty-four hours to fully dry and toughen without the cooker treatment.

*Sand your dried and hardened piece before firing. If you do not like fingerprints, you will not be well placed to remove them after firing.

*Metal clay is soluble and can be fell with water. Keep a tiny bowl of water or a spritzer handy while you're employed. If it starts to dry out while working, you can add a bit of water to dampen it.

*Buying smaller packages beats larger as you will not have to fret about the entire block drying out. The price difference is immaterial, and you may waste extra cash by needing to thru out old dried out clay.

*You can extend the working time of your metal clay by adding a drop or 2 of glycerin ( available at drug stores ) to your newly opened package of silver clay. To use : make a depression with your thumb in the clay, and add a drop or 2 of glycerin. Fold the clay a couple of times to mix in the glycerin, then spritz with water. Wrap in plastic wrap and let sit so the clay can absorb the glycerin. When you work with the clay the following day, use as always. This trick will extend the working time, but also extends the drying time required before firing.

*If you see a blackish mildew, do not be disturbed. This will burn away when firing. This mildew takes place when you use regular tap water to moisten the clay.

*Playing cards make great "spacers" when rolling out clay to an even thickness. Just stack cards on each side of the clay, then use your roller to roll out the clay between the cards.

*To store metal clay between uses, be certain to spritz with water and wrap it well with plastic wrap.

*different clays have different firing temperatures so be certain to match your firing temperature to your clay type.

*Once fired, you must brush and burnish it to get a great shine. First brush well with a stiff brush to loosen any ash or residue, then rinse with water. Then you'll be wanting to burnish the metal to compress it, make it smoother, and shinier. Utilise a burnishing tool made from agate or metal for this. The tool has a smooth face and pointy tip for burnishing the more detailed areas.

*You can dunk the piece in water after firing to chill it quickly .

*Firing you clay too shortly, at too low a temperature, or for too short a time may cause your project to crack. Firing for too much time may melt some of the detail.

Now you have some silver clay suggestions, I bet you are psyched. You need to work with this innovative material now! What will you make first?