Ecuador Travel: The Oriente

Visitors are pulled to the Oriente for its biodiversity. Beyond the cloud forest of the eastern Andean foothills, it is all rainforest. 50% of Ecuador's mammals live here in the forested hills, wetland marshes, rushing rivers, and black-water lagoons. Put on a pair of rubber boots and join the tapirs, manatees, freshwater dolphins, monkeys, sloths, jaguars, and caimans. There are many excellent opportunities to see the wildlife on river trips and cross cultural exchanges.

One of the world's most fascinating rainforests is also home to two huge oil pipelines, encroaching colonists, rugged jungle towns, environmentalists, and indigenous groups. In the 1960s when oil exploration drew colonists into an area that was largely unexplored. Ecuador's native population was quickly thrown into the 20th-century but has maintained their fascinating culture. The Achucar, Cofan, Quichua, Secoya, Shauar, Huaorani, Siona, and Zaparo all live in the Oriente.

The Oriente gets plenty of rain between April and July, and rains are common throughout the year. Bring rainboots to keep your feet dry and protected from snakes. December to March, and August are the driest months in the Oriente. Lagoons dry up, waterfalls turn into trickles, and small rivers may become impassable. There is a contrast between the hot flatlands (from the Coca area north toward Colombia and east to Peru) and cooler upland hills (around Tena, Misahuallí, and Puyo). Damp jungle nights can feel very chilly, so bring a light sweater.

Must see:

1)      The flooded forest of Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno where you can float on in blackwater paradise. This reserve covers 6034 sq km of rainforest around Río Cuyabeno in northeastern Ecuador.

2)      The winding back roads of Gualaquiza whizzing by as you hold on to the handlebars of a mountain bike. At the southernmost tip of the Oriente, the lush Amazon collides with the verdant sierra forests. Instead of biking, consider white water rafting, canoeing, or abseiling.

3)      The view of the rain forest canopy from the lookout towers of a jungle lodge in Upper and Lower Río Napo. Several lodges east of Coca can be reached downstream.

4)      Huaorani village, where native Amerindians preserve their culture in the rainforest.

5)      The sights along the Río Jondachi as you raft down the rolling rapids. Rafting, hiking, horseback riding, and mountain climbing day trips can be extended with overnight stays.

6)      Shuar territory during the Chonta festival. Dance and feast at the most important Shuar celebration of the year. Held in Macas during the last week of May it is culiminated in a dance to help ferment the chica.

7)      Eat hot maitos (fish grilled in palm leaves) in Coca, the capital of Orellana. At the junction of Ríos Coca and Napo, this dusty, hot town is a good place to guzzle down beer and watch small town life.