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Malta. A treasure trove of history

Over the centuries, being located at the crossroads of the Mediterranean meant that Malta attracted many foreigners - mostly unwelcome. Many nations with greedy ambitions coveted the islands, and though often ruled, the Maltese were never truly dominated.

From pre-historic times (5000 BC) when the first inhabitants arrived from Sicily up to 1964 when Malta became fully independent, many heroic battles were fought. The most memorable was the 'Great Siege' of 1565 when totally outnumbered in men and arms by a massive Turkish army of invaders, they conducted one of the most valiant defences in history.

The Maltese also felt the pain of Hitler's aggression during World War 11, suffering more bombing raids than London, but the defiant resistance if its brave people twarted German designs, and in recognition of their exceptional bravery, the whole of Malta was awarded the George Cross, now highlighted in the national flag.

Of all the visitors to the islands over the centuries, the arrival of the Knights of St. John in 1530 left the greatest imprint. The Knight's long and distinguished rule of the islands is reflected in magnificent palaces, churches and monuments.

Valletta is Malta's capital city. Built by the Knights, this heavily fortified baroque city is to-day a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Surrounded on three sides by the blue Mediterranean, its massive Grand Harbour is as beautiful as the fortress city itself.

I never tire of rambling through the quaint narrow streets of Valletta, inhaling the old air of history, tinged with a cocktail of rich coffee and exotic perfumes of the cosmopolitan family who, like myself, are wandering around soaking up the unique atmosphere of this intriguing city. The experience is embellished when I stroll into the many old churches and palaces, especially the astonishingly beautiful Cathedral of St. John, where many of the most famous Knights are buried and where I gaze in awe at Caravaggio's 'Beheading of St. John' and the many other art treasures on view.

Another scene of fascination and intrigue for me is the old city of Mdina. This historic citadel and medieval capital is one of Malta's most important possessions. Perched on the highest point of the island, it can be seen from every corner. When I enter through the massive city gate and meander around the narrow streets of this ancient, 'secretive and shadowy' world, I get an eerie feeling of strange spiritualism, and as the thought crosses my mind that I may be trespassing or disturbing an old ghost town, the magnetism of its enchantment pulls me on.

Each one of the many homely little villages in Malta has its own proud centre piece: a large, ornate and beautiful church. Having visited almost all of them, I marvel at the religious fervour and dedication to St. Paul's faith, that inspired them.

The immense dome of the church at Mosta is one of Malta's outstanding landmarks. Built by the villagers 150 years ago, voluntary and without scaffolding, it is one of the biggest church domes in the world. During the war in 1942 while the faithful were attending Mass, a bomb penetrated the dome, landing on the floor among the people. Miraculously, it failed to explode and the empty shell can now be viewed in the sacristy of the church.

Another fascinating experience for visitors to Malta is a tour of the maze of underground air raid shelters that were constructed during World War 11. They are preserved and now displayed for the world to see, a reminder of the suffering  endured and the futility of war. They are also testimony to the ingenuity and resiliance of brave people under siege.

Malta is now a prosperous, modern republic. Her vision is firmly focussed on the future, but across her heart is engraved the emblem of a proud and glorious past.

Paddy Cummins

Irish author. Books: Three novels. Four collections of short stories and poems. Latest novel: 'The Crying Sea' Lives in Ireland in summer and in Malta during winter months.

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