The north coast of Dominican Republic : much more than what the "all inclusive" will show you

Cabrera and the Costa Verde

East of Cabarete, a famous tourist resort for kitesurfers, opens the Costa Verde. You enter via Gaspar Hernandez whose main street is constantly bubbling of life. The road continues through increasingly exuberant vegetation, remains of a thick forest untouched until the second half of the 19th century. Very soon small colored wooden cabins arise along the road, offering bags of local almonds.

A few kilometers away hides Playa Magante. A trail divides itself in two and leads to both ends of this beautiful grey sand beach. Few bungalows, right on the beach, welcome the tourist; you will sleep soothed by the murmur and eat fresh fish offered by the local restaurants.

Back on the main road, to Rio San Juan, the most famous town on the Costa Verde. Its Laguna Grigri is a must; boats slide in the mangrove to reach the sea or the cave of swallows and Playa Caleton.

Finally, comes Playa Grande, known as one of the most beautiful beaches in the country. A magnificent 18-hole golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones overlooks the beach and offers a stunning ocean view.

Before reaching Cabrera in the province of Maria Trinidad Sanchez, the road runs through Cabo Francés Viejo, a small national park of 1.5 km2. The white limestone cliff stands out in the background of Playa El Bretón.

Cabrera is a small city on the Atlantic coast, but also a province of 276 km2, offering numerous beautiful natural landscapes. Cabrera is located on a promontory of limestone terraces going down to the sea. In some places the land reaches the sea, while, in other, 400-meter cliffs overlook the ocean. The province of Cabrera offers a wealth of amazing sceneries and striking ocean views. Samana peninsula can even be seen from Cabrera on clear days.

There is a typical Dominican atmosphere in the little town. For a long time Cabrera was just a passage between the Amber Coast and the Samana Peninsula, and only a few foreigners were lucky enough to get a glimpse of its beauty and tranquility and built in their vacation or main residence in Cabrera.

The city is planted along a coastline carved by the centenary assault of waves. On stormy days, the landscape has something reminding of Britain or Ireland. Going either east or west you are not very far from beautiful beaches. Each one has its own style, between a hiden creek and a long stretch: Playa Bretón lying at the feet of limestone cliffs; Playa Caletón de Dario hidden behind a luxurious residence, Orchid Bay, where homes are caressed by the sea breeze; Playa Diamante, a small closed bay where the Ocean enters gently, bringing joy to the children with no fear of the deep sea; and Playa La Boca in the small fishing village of La Entrada. The latter, little known by tourist guides is a long stretch of fine sand. To access Playa La Boca take the royal alley lined with palms, alongside a river flowing into the sea. On their days off, Dominicans can enjoy either freshwater or saltwater, to the beat of tropical music. If the sea is generous, the inland is no less. On the outskirts of La Entrada, Laguna Doudou and the blue lake invite visitors in their green and blue, soft and fresh waters, a great way to escape the bite of the sun. Further up peaks and valleys succeed one another, as green as meadows in Normandy; from the heights you can enjoy the sea without growing tired. Nagua, where trade and agriculture dominate, is the exit door from the Costa Verde.

From Cabarete to Puerto Plata

East of Gaspar Hernandez begins Costa de Ambar (The Amber Coast), named from its large deposits of the fossil resin. Cabarete is a resort known worldwide for its strong winds (one of the top 10 world spots) for the enjoyment of kite windsurfers. It is also a pleasant place for swimmers with 3 miles of beach and a buoyant nightlife with its bars and restaurants right on the sand under the coconut trees. This is definitely an international spot! Further west lies the town of Sosúa, tourist mecca and melting pot. Dominicans and foreigners get to know each other in the district of El Batey (name formerly used only for the Haitian district), while other Dominicans stay in the Charamicos, the poorest district, however undeniably full of the joie de vivre of its inhabitants. The beautiful bay of Sosua, with its translucent green waters joins the two districts. Under the coconut and palm trees, small local shops display Haitian art, jewelry and local multicoloured pareos. You can also indulge yourself with a fresh fish and "tostones" (fried plantains) under the shade of a parasol, lying on a lounge chair.

Walking around in the district of El Batey you will discover the synagogue and the Jewish Museum. During the Second World War, the dictator Trujillo opened the doors of the country and offered to Jews in exodus to settle in what was then a village. The Jewish community established itself on this land and participated in the development of the town.

To get to Puerto Plata, the road runs through sugar cane fields. At the entrance of the city, the road is lined with the large hotel Playa Dorada lying along the long beach, which joins the "Malecón" (walk) in the city. There is a heavy traffic in the city: cars and motorcycles compete for the road, be careful and have eyes everywhere to avoid any accident.

The town is overlooked by the mountain Isabel de Torres, named by Christopher Columbus in 1492. You can climb by cable-car to admire - when the weather is clear - a magnificent panorama of the city and its bay, and a statue of Christ, more modest, though, than in Rio de Janeiro.

In the center one can still admire the ancient splendor of the city and its wooden Victorian houses, notably around “Parque Central” restored in spring 2008. You have to lose your way in the adjacent streets and get caught by the charm of this city rocked by the Atlantic Ocean; you have to sit down and start a discussion with a Dominican, they are always smiling and happy to share with you; you have to visit the museum of amber that tells the story of a marriage of the fauna and flora in the sap of the trees 30 million years ago; you have to enter the Fortress of San Felipe at the end of the “Malecón”, the oldest relic of the 16th century, which once defended the city against pirates’ attack, and housed prisoners at other times of his long history.

Puerto Plata to Monte Cristi

The exit of Puerto Plata towards the west is as lively as its entry; everything becomes more peaceful approaching the Bay of Cofresi named from the famous Puerto Rican pirate. Slightly aside from the beach, toward Imbert is a magical place, Damajagua falls. Go there light with your material well-packed in sealed bags to climb down natural water slides and plunge into the 27 waterfalls ("charcos") of the river.

Further west you reach the Bay of Luperón offering boats a natura creek shielding them form the storms. It is a quiet place where lies a small fishing port. A few kilometers away, you arrive to what was the first city in the New World, La Isabela. The road is difficult but the landscape deserves the trip. On 10 December 1493, Christopher Columbus founded the small colony. Today, there are the ruins of the military section called "Castillo." At short distance are Punta Rucia and its beautiful beach of la Enseñada. From here you can sail in a small boat to reach "Cayo Paraíso”, a small sandbar in the middle of the sea. You can swim surrounded by the fish.

The last guard before crossing the border with Haiti is Monte Cristi. The landscape gets drier, the vegetation tougher with a variety of cactus. It rains a little in this region. The city had its golden age with its natural port and its export of agricultural products, bananas and wood, to Europe. Today, poverty pervades the streets. The city does not lack of interest, however, with its salt marshes, the National Park El Morro, which encloses a spectacular rock dressed in a ochre ground, its Cayos Siete Hermanos (7 Brothers Keys) that beyond the corals used to offer a haven for pirates and bucaneers from another time.

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