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Valletta. Malta's work of art

Designed and built by the Knights of St. John in the late 16th century, Malta's capital city, Valletta, is surrounded on three sides by the blue Mediterranean and flanked by the world famous Grand Harbour, acclaimed for its massive drydocks and extensive shipping industry.

The unique design of Valletta makes it a walkers dream. A maze of quaint, narrow streets filled with Barroque splendor, endless stepways leading down to the sea, brimming with old world charm, and a myried of richly decorated churches, museums and palaces. Several days of meandering through this feast of enchantment is required to really explore the treasures enclosed within the massive walls of this legendary city.

Entry through the massive city gate leads you into the main thoroughfare, Republic Street. This is where tourists from all over the world get their first taste of Valletta, spend lots of time there and lots of money too. One of Malta's main shopping centers, it divides the city in halves and contains all the world's big brand names and designer merchandise.

This famous street is also the location of some of Valletta's most important attractions. The highlight is St. John's Co-Cathedral, acclaimed worldwide for its magnificent splendor and art treasures.

Standing majestically in a little quiet square off the main street, this wonderful example of Barroque art is Malta's finest church. Its interior is unrivalled for its architecture, paintings and sculptures. Nine seperate chapels, lavishly embellished, adorn both sides of the cathedral nave, and the entire floor contains 364 inlaid marble tombs. The Knights of Malta, buried beneath are imortalized in scroll, epitaph and unique individual emblems. It is truly a chequerboard of glorious history.

The cathedral also features the Museum of St. John, where pride of place is given to some priceless Flemish tapestries dating from 1702. These rare treasures depict scenes from the life of Jesus Christ and other important biblical episodes.

For most visitors to this world famous cathedral, their lasting memory would probably be the Oratory of St. John. Once a corner of meditation for the Knights, it is now the location of the most important work of art in Malta: Caravaggio's world renown 'Beheading of St. John the Baptist' This masterpiece is truly stunning in its magnificent presence. Visitors just stare in bewilderment at the brilliant portrayal in unique light and colour of the gruesome execution and turn away awestruck at the genius of the disturbed 17th century artist.

Also dominating Republic Street is the impressive National Library, built in 1790 and holding all the records of the Knights of Malta from their foundation in 1113. It is estimated to house 400,000 books, including historic documents and deeds. Most visitors to Valletta browse the ancient halls and then relax in the square below with an open air 'cappuccino', served across the street from the most famous coffee shop in Malta: Cafe Cordina.

On a few paces and you are in Pjazza Palazz, the square of the Grand Masters Palace. This important 1571 building has been the seat of Malta's government down the centuries. History is seeping from its walls and apartments, having housed Grand Masters, British Governors and all heads of state since the 16th century. On many memorable occasions through the years the old square heaved with throngs of excited  Maltese, thrilled to be addressed by such famous icons as Pope John Paul 11, Queen Elizabeth 11, President Roosevelt and all Presidents and Prime Ministers of Malta. The palace is still the seat of government to-day, with the president's office and the house of parliment occupying the building.

With so many treasures to see, a whole day of pleasure will pass in one street alone. But there is much more to Valletta than Republic Street. The Grand Harbour will need another day to explore, taking in the impressive new 'Waterfront'. This is where the enormous cruise liners tie up, thousands of passengers disembark to feast on the unique charms of Valletta, and where the myried of shops and restaurants are waiting to serve them. Its big business for Malta and a pleasant experience for the guests.

The best way of exploring the Grand Harbour is by taking a trip on one of the many harbour cruisers. Its inexpensive, you get a wonderful view of the massive shipyards and drydocks, a relaxing visit to every quaint little inlet, and an excellent commentary on the complete history of Valletta. Not to be missed.

Valletta is an artists dream, a walkers nirvana and a historian's paradise. The city was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980 - an emblem of distinction widely acclaimed and outstandingly well merited.

The pen is inadequate to describe it.

Paddy Cummins

Paddy Cummins Irish author. Books: Three novels. Four collections of short stories and poems. Latest novel: 'THE CRYING SEA' Inspired by a true sea tragedy that occurred off the coast of Malta in 2008. A little boy survives six days in the arms of he father, without food or water, on a makeshift raft, while onshore, his distraught mother prayed that the massive air and sea search would find them. Paddy lives in Ireland in summer and in Malta during winter months.

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