Plumbing Problems You Can Fix yourself

Problems with sinks, drains, faucets, and other parts of the household plumbing circuits are a major cause of household repair bills. So, let’s start with that persistent “drip, drip, drip” from a leaky faucet. Most faucet leaks are caused by a worn-out washer (rubber or synthetic ring inside the faucet), or o-rings and corroded valve seats. Besides the irritation, a worn-out washer is a source of wasted water and higher water bills. What to do?

First, you must find a way to shut off the water flow to the sink. Usually there is a valve underneath the sink that will do this. If not, there is a main water valve into the house, and temporarily you can shut the whole water supply off.

Then remove the screw that holds the faucet handle in place and lift it off. Underneath this is a “bonnet” or cap nut on which you will have to use a wrench to remove it. (Wrap a cloth or tape around chrome fittings to prevent damage from wrenches.) Now you can lift out the “spindle” (shaft going down into the faucet). Looking at the end of the spindle, you will see a rubber or fiber washer held in place by a screw. Remove this washer and replace it with a new one. They are cheap at hardware stores; it is best to buy them several at a time and have them in the house.

After putting it back together, what if it still drips? Go to a hardware store and get what is called a valve-seat cutter or seating tool can also be used to resurface a worn seat. Again remove the spindle. Looking into the body of the valve—at the bottom—you will see its base or “seat.” Using the directions you get with the seating tool, grind away the nicks in the “seat” so that it is smooth. Those nicks let water through, causing the drip. Now that the washer and seat can fit tight against each other, your problem should be solved.

To repair some single-lever faucets, you will probably need to purchase a repair kit for that particular brand.

Another frequent plumbing problem is clogged drains or a clogged toilet. These are caused by hair, animal fat from food, bits of vegetable peel, combs, bobby pins, and so forth. Frequently you are very near the problem, for the clogging is usually in the “trap,” the curved portion of the pipe below the sink, or in the body of the toilet itself.

There are many chemicals marketed to unclog drains, and some persons feel that the convenience of using them makes them worth while. However, many contain concentrated caustic dangerous to the skin. Most authorities feel that, in the long run, mechanical means of unclogging are better for you and for your pipes. They advise you first to try your “plumber’s friend”—the rubber plunger. Simply put it over the drain, covering the plunger with water for best results. (Also close the overflow vent in the sink if it has one.) Work the tool vigorously and deliberately. Give it about ten strokes, then allow the water to run off. Try this approach several times.

If this does not unclog the drain, you will have to resort to using a “snake” or drain auger. This is simply a long, flexible, twisted steel wire. Push the steel in as far as it will go, and usually with a little persistence you can unblock the drain or toilet.

If this doesn`t work then you`ll probably need to resort to the use of chemicals in some form.