Perhentian's Tropical Beaches

There’s just something about visiting a mostly deserted tropical island that always piques my interest. Perhaps it’s an element of the unknown – I may be safe on the beach, but how far away are the vicious monkeys or enormous lizards?

Arguably the best of the best Malaysian beach retreats are the Perhentian Islands that lie approximately 10 nautical miles (19 km) off the coast of northeastern Malaysia in the state of Terengganu. They are the perfect place to take a break – even down to the name; ‘perhentian’ actually means ‘stopping point’.

As they lie only 64km or so south of the Thai border they are every bit as beautiful as their Siamese counterparts but, importantly, significantly less developed.

The two main islands are Perhentian Besar (translated as Big Perhentian) and Perhentian Kecil (which means Small Perhentian). The small, uninhabited islands of Susu Dara, Seringgi and Rawa lie off Kecil and are the perfect place to spend an afternoon living out any fantasies of being shipwrecked on a paradise island.

What makes them special? Well, the Perhentians belong to Pulau Redang National Marine Park, which means that fishing, collecting coral and littering are strictly prohibited. It also means that steps have been taken to protect the natural beauty of the islands. You’ll find no luxurious, sprawling hotel complexes here. Instead, your accommodation is likely to be a simple shack on the beach.

Of these shacks, one of the most popular is Tuna Bay Resort on Pulau Perhentian Besar near Pasir Jong. The word resort might be a slight exaggeration of what they offer (no spas, pools or room service here) but what isn’t lacking is the atmosphere – it’s terrific.

Popular with families, this is a place to relax and have fun – as oppose to being the perfect escape for honeymooners wanting a quiet getaway. There’s a holiday feeling permeating through the bay that makes you feel as if you could walk up to anyone and say hello.

If you want a second simple recommendation, ask for “Pasir Panjang” (Long Beach) on Perhentian Kecil. You’re unlikely to have it to yourself, but it is a very beautiful beach with postcard-perfect white sand and crystal clear water. Take some snacks and you’ll be set for a picnic that will last long in the memory.

Another activity that makes for unforgettable memories is diving. Both islands are fringed by stunning reefs and crystalline water which are host to a wide variety of coral, sea-turtles, jellyfish, small sharks and reef-fish.

It’s easy enough to get PADI qualified and go quite deep (the diving school at D’Anyana House is recommended) but, to be honest, simply strapping on a snorkel and splashing about will still bring you in contact with an incredible array of sea life.

For me though, it’s all about being on land. The sea may fascinate some, but I live for beaches.