Marketing Manager
Portugal is one of the most renowned producers of wine in the world, but its reputation is based not on table wine, but on the fortified wines of Port and, less so, Madeira. But Portugal also produces a few excellent table wines, particularly in the north of the country. There is an eclectic mix of grape varieties, and undoubtedly the leader of the pack is the Touriga Nacional. This grape is the basis for fine Ports and the red wines of the Douro, as well as having an increasing presence in many other regions. The regions are classified, as they are in many other European wine-producing nations, so that appropriate regulations may be laid down. The main regions are referred to as Denominaçâo de Origem Controlada (DOC).
Northern Portugal
In the north is the Douro DOC, situated around the river of the same name. The Douro enters Portugal from Spain, where it is known as the Duero, and is home to the vineyards of the Ribera del Duero. Full bodied, meaty, complex reds can be produced here.
Nearby is Dâo, very much an up and coming region for good value, full bodied reds, and even a few white wines. Wines from single quinta estates are, as always, likely to be of higher quality.
Also nearby is Bairrada, another DOC producing a few good value red wines, although they are of less significance than those coming from the Douro and Dão. Bairrada has the dubious honour of being one of the main sources of grapes for Mateus Rosé, a medium sweet carbonated wine which graces supermarket shelves the world over.
Also in the north is Vinho Verde, a region producing red and white wines which can offer some pleasant drinking from quality minded producers for the pleasure of wine importers. Most offerings, however, are dire, so choose carefully. The wine has a slight spritz which was once due to a slight secondary fermentation, but unfortunately in modern times this is much more likely to be carbon dioxide added just before bottling.
South Portugal
Further south the wines are much less significant. Around Lisbon are the regions of Estremedura and Ribatejo, although neither produce any great wines. A number of tiny sub regions, including Carcavelos, Colares, Bucelas and Setúbal produce a few interesting bottles, although they are rarely seen in the UK.
Getting much further south, Alentejo can be interesting, as can Terras do Sado. On the Algarve a number of DOC produce unsurprisingly forgettable wine. These include Lagos, Portimâo, Lagoa and Tavira.
MadeiraThe island of Madeira is a small outpost of Portugal off the west coast of Africa, which produces a fortified wine based on the Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey grapes. It is made in a similar style to Port, with the addition of grape spirit causing cessation of fermentation. An additional feature, however, is the heating of the wine, at perhaps 50ºC, for about six months. This practice apparently stems from (another wine fable coming up) the improvement in the wine noted when it was transported on long sea journeys through hot climates in the 17th century. Heating the wine, together with exposure to oxygen, oxidises and stabilises it. As a result, Madeira is a long lived wine, with vintages from the early 20th and late 19th centuries drinking well at present.
Some of these producers also produce extra virgin olive oil that can be sold to olive oil importers
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