Choosing The Right Metal For Your Diamond Engagement Ring

While most brides follow the "Four C's" to determine what type of diamond they want, the type of metal for their engagement ring is usually more of an afterthought. But the metal used in your engagement and wedding ring set holds the diamonds in place and influences the overall appearance of the rings so it should be thought out.

For decades, the solitaire diamond engagement ring with a yellow gold setting was pretty standard for the jewelry industry. And silver, a less-valued metal, was usually reserved for gifts and less sacred occasions. Then white gold and platinum came along, and with palladium recently added to the mix, today's bride has far more options. But how do you know which metal is right for the ring design you have chosen?

Lifestyle, preference and the overall style of the ring should all be considered when deciding which metal will work best for your ring. Here's some info on the different types of metals available, and pros and cons of each.

Silver
Silver jewelry, including engagement rings, is usually manufactured in one of two ways: sterling sliver or silver plated. Because it is much too soft in its pure form, fine silver (99.9 percent or better) is usually only sold on the commodities market.

Sterling silver is 92.5 percent pure silver mixed with 7.5 percent other metals, usually copper. Other metals used in place of copper include germanium, zinc, platinum and additives such as silicon and boron. Silver plated jewelry is usually bonded to another metal, such as copper or nickel.

Pros
Sterling silver is usually the least expensive of the precious metals, and compliments the brilliance of any ring setting.

Cons
This metal's soft texture, even when combined with other metals, means it is likely to show wear over time. In addition, silver plated jewelry is often combined with nickel, a metal linked to skin allergies in people with sensitive skin. And silver plating can wear off over time exposing the other metal underneath.

Gold
For years, yellow gold was the most sought-after metal for engagement rings and wedding bands. The most malleable of all metals, gold is often combined with copper or silver to make it less resistant to scratching and denting.

While 24k gold is pure gold, most engagement ring settings are sold in 18k, 14k or 10k; the lower the carat, the higher the percentage of other metals.
White gold is an alloy of gold and another white metal, such as silver, palladium or nickel, and usually has an outer layer of rhodium to give the piece a nice luster. Gold plating, a thin layer of gold over a piece of silver jewelry, is the least expensive alternative in the gold family.

Pros
Gold provides a warm background for a more traditional solitaire setting and it accentuates the beauty of most diamond stone settings. It's traditional and more affordable than the higher-end metals, and works well with darker gem stones such as rubies, emeralds and sapphires.

Cons
The soft texture of gold makes it susceptible to scratching and denting. White gold typically contains nickel and creates a dilemma for the 12.5 percent of the population that is allergic to nickel. In addition, the rhodium coating may need to be replaced during the lifetime of the ring. And while gold plating is a less expensive option, it is rarely used because the plating usually tarnishes in a short period of time.

Palladium
A newcomer to the jewelry industry, palladium is a metal that offers the buyer the best of both worlds. As a member of the platinum family, the brilliance and durability of palladium outshines other white metals. This metal's cheaper price is a perfect match for the budget-conscious.

Pros
Palladium (http://www.danforthdiamond.com/palladium/index.html) is the best bargain white metal. It's hypoallergenic nature makes it an attractive alternative for brides who may have had to pass on white gold in the past because of a nickel allergy. In addition, palladium is cheaper than platinum and can be combined with gold to make a hypoallergenic white gold engagement ring setting.

Cons
Because palladium is the hot new trend in the jewelry industry, its popularity continues to grow and there have been few, if any criticisms of it. Except, of course, that it's not platinum, the Grand-Daddy of all metals.

Platinum
The frame of the crown for Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, worn during her and George the VI's coronation in 1937, was made of platinum. Hundreds of years earlier, Louis the XV of France declared platinum to be the only metal fit for a king. What else is there to say?

Pros
Platinum is a very strong, durable metal that is very resistant to wear and tarnish. As a white metal, its integrity is unmatched, and when combined with the brilliance of a diamond, creates an exquisite display as an engagement ring. Platinum prongs are often used to hold diamonds in a setting but platinum prongs can be used on shanks made of other metals.

Cons
Platinum is the most expensive of the precious metals.

Deciding which metal works best for your engagement ring is a big decision. Choose your precious metal wisely (http://www.danforthdiamond.com/education/metal/index.htm), because this is the one piece of jewelry you will want to show off for a lifetime.