As with many DIY projects, the concept may start of as a simple dream in your head, where you think, we're "just" going to put a deck in. Lately, I've become leery of the word "just". It seems to imply a certain ease and simplicity, and with almost everything around the home, doing "just" this or that, usually ends up being a much more involved project. But, so long as you're realist about the challenges of DIY projects than there is no reason not to plow forward. With the case of a DIY deck project the first major question you'll want to answer before you get going, is what kind of material is right for you and your new deck. Here's a break down of some of what's out there:
The major decision you'll need to make is whether or not you want a deck built from real wood, composite or aluminum.
There are still many great real wood choices out there. Western Red Cedar is a reddish wood that ages to a nice silvery gray. This is a good quality, especially if you're considering not staining your wood. Weather worn Red Cedar still has an appealing look to it. You can also choose to keep the original reddish color of your deck by using a penetrating stain. Just note that the drawback is having to do regular staining maintenance on the deck. It holds up well in sun, heat, rain and cold, but is a soft wood and does have a t endency to splinter easily.
A great tight-grained hardwood out there is Philippine Mahogany. It is pest resistant and rot resistant and it you treat it with marine oil it'll come up looking like teak! Like the cedar, if untreated it also ages to an appealing silver hue. You'll want to make sure this wood has been harvested responsibly- so look for the "FSC" trademark.
There's also a rain forest wood is known as Ipé and it is highly bug and rot resistant as well. Actually this wood is so hard that it can be as challenging to burn as concrete! Again, check that this wood has been responsibly harvested.
Another soft lumber is redwood, which also ages to a pleasing gray but if exposed to prolonged moisture can begin to blacken. Therefore this wood is not as good in very rainy, moist climates. This particular material definitely looks more attractive if sealed and treated.
As for composite woods these will include polymer and wood-polymer composites. Of course, these materials are virtually rot-proof and bug-proof, but as "imitations" will never look just like wood.
Another option out there that is worth considering is aluminum. Aluminum, unlike wood, won't rot, crack or war. Hassles of ongoing maintenance are basically avoided. Once installed, an aluminum deck gives a nice clean look and is pretty much up-keep free. Most designs offer interlocking panels that hides all screws and fasteners and crate a waterproof surface, as well waterproofing the underside of the deck. Most surfaces of aluminum deck materials are non-skid and have the advantage of remaining much cooler than wood when exposed to heat.
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Would like to remodel kitchen...but have to watch ...
By: gypsy058 | 07-10-2008
would like to remodel kitchen...but have to watch the penny's...what would be the best inexpenseve cabinets to get and counter tops with out getting ourselves in a hole....is there such a thing as just putting new doors on cabinets or is it better just to replace the whole thing...also flooring is tile a good thing..keeping in mind cost is everything here..
Removal of wall paper residue.
By: Annette | 07-10-2008
I removed 25 year old wall paper using DIF and a scrapper. I have the residue of the glue and tiny pieces of the glue paper still on the walls. How do I remove this? I was thinking of getting a sander and just buffing it into the wall itself then applying a primer before I paint. Do you have a better solution to this nagging, time consuming problem?!? THANK YOU!!! Annette
Installing a ceiling fan with a dormer bedroom above.
By: jo | 07-10-2008
can you install a ceiling fan with a dormer bedroom above.
Toilet leaks at bottom
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Ask Eric Stromer a question here.
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Where do you buy TSP?
They wouldn't let me take Shop....
By: Wishing | 06-10-2008
I am trying to install metal angle iron frames into the 2x4 studs to hang a wooden shelf in my shed. I am using a 9.6V cordless drill. I drilled a pilot hole, but the three screws would not sink all the way in. I re-drilled using the next larger drill bit, but still no luck! I don't dare use a larger drill bit. The screws are 1" long, and the drill bit is 1.25" long. What am I doing wrong? I wanted to take Shop, but they made me take Sewing!
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