Leather Basics

What’s the difference between nubuck and suede? Why is some leather described as “full-grain” and other leather “natural grain”? Will shoes made from expensive leather require more maintenance?

These are just some of the questions you may face when purchasing a pair of leather shoes. It is important to get the facts straight before you make an investment so that you know exactly the kind of care your leather shoes will require. Caring for leather shoes properly is the best way to extend their life and keep them looking stylish for years to come.

The natural properties of the leather – its texture, the size of its pores, the presence of wrinkles or other markings – are referred to collectively as the leather’s “grain”. Leather that has “natural grain” has not been processed and retains all the original markings including natural blemishes such as scars. Full-grain leather is leather that retains most of its natural characteristics. The leather is not sanded or majorly treated beyond hair removal. It is cut to best display the leather’s attractive qualities. Most full-grain leather is dyed with a transparent dye designed to showcase the natural markings of the leather. Full-grain leather that has been treated in this way is called aniline. Because the dye is transparent, only the best quality leather can be used. Leather of a slightly lower quality is treated with a pigmented dye and called semi-aniline.

Full-grain leather includes both the top and inner layers of the hide. Sometimes the top and inner layers are separated. Leather made from the top layer of the hide (the epidermis) is called top-grain leather. It also displays the grain of the leather and is considered to be very high quality. Split leather does not include the upper layer of the leather, and so it does not display the leather’s natural grain. Most of the time split leather is buffed. The resulting leather is referred to as “napped” leather, and it is softer and fuzzier than full-grain leather. Both nubuck and suede are examples of split leather. Shoes are most often made from napped leather.

No matter the type of leather your shoes are made from, they require proper care. A cloth or shoe brush should be used to wipe away excess dirt. Special suede and nubuck brushes are available. Full-grain leather should be regularly conditioned; you can find leather shoe conditioners in most shoe shops. Be sure to apply the conditioner with a soft cloth and wipe away the excess.