Mastering Makeup-beauty

To get a polished look, I suggest you use concealer, foundation, powder, lipstick, and perhaps mascara. For a more striking appearance, you may want to add eye­liner, eye shadow, lip liner, and blush. But the goal is not to look painted it's to enhance your true beauty. How much makeup you use is a matter of personal preference. Here's what you need to know about choosing and using the right cosmetics. The product recommendations in this chapter include my own suggestions and those of women of color makeup artists I've consulted.

Concealer Clues. The purpose of concealer is to conceal or camouflage darker areas of the face (such as the under-eye area) and blemished or blotchy spots. The color of your concealer should be a shade lighter than your foundation-that is, a shade lighter than your natural skin tone. After cleansing, moisturizing (if needed), and applying sunscreen to your face, dot concealer in your trouble spots. Use a light touch too much concealer can give your complexion an uneven, cakey look. You can use a damp makeup sponge or your fingers to blend in. Don't rush the blending process take your time to get the right, even-toned look. Try a MAC concealer or Bobbi Brown or MAC full coverage foundation as concealer.

Foundation Facts. Foundation is used to even out skin tone and give your face a smooth appearance. Choosing the correct color is crucial, so be sure to test a product before you buy it. To do this, have the makeup consultant apply the foundation to your entire face, and take a good look at your skin in natural light. If the foundation blends in and disappears, thus appearing natural, it's the right color. A too light foundation may make your skin look ashen. Take a closer look to make sure the foundation's undertone is not too red, orange, or yellow. If the color does not match, keep trying other shades, either from that line of cosmetics or from an altogether different line, until you find the one that most closely approximates your skin tone.

The next step is to make sure you've chosen a foundation for your skin type.

This is important because the wrong type can make the skin look dull or too shiny or worse, like you're wearing a mask. Foundations come in different forms liquid, cream, cream-to-powder, and stick, matte and moisturizing formulas. If you have acne, you'll need a light oil-free foundation that doesn't clog your pores and trigger a breakout. Avoid oil based products, such as those often found in compacts, and opt for nonacnegenic or noncomedogenic products instead. Whatever your skin type, you may need to switch products when the seasons change or if you move to a dry climate.

For oily skin. Look for oil free or water based foundations, or a foundation and powder in one compact. Matte or semi matte formulas will look best on your skin. If you have very oily skin, don't forget to use a toner before applying any makeup and blot oily areas during the day with tissue. Try Estee Lauder's Double Matte Foundation· for oil control. Avon's Clear Finish Oil Free Foundation, an antiacne treatment that contains salicylic acid, is perfect for acne prone skin as well as oily skin.

For normal combination skin. A water based foundation should suit your needs. If you have T-zone skin and your cheeks become especially dry, experiment with water and oil combination products. Semi-matte formulas will look best.

For dry skin. Opt for moisturizing foundations that contain some amount of oil or a combination of oil and water but only if you are not acne prone. These often come in cream or liquid form. For acne prone skin, oil free foundation is still best. Just apply a moisturizer before applying your foundation.

For sensitive skin. As always, choose hypoallergenic products that are free of potential irritants. A light, water-based foundation should do.

For hyper pigmenting skin. Since this skin type is prone to the development of dark marks, camouflaging the marks with foundation is essential. Consider using a foundation stick, such as Black Opal Stick Foundation, or a foundation in a compact, such as MAC Studio Fix Powder Foundation, for more complete coverage.