Selecting a Reel for Fly Fishing

If you’re like me, you get your Orvis or LL Bean catalog or some other “wish book” in the mail and drool over the vast array of fly reels they have to offer. Modern reels are made from various grades of aluminum to high-grade plastic, and alloys unheard of before this century. Regardless of cost or material, there is one attribute they all have in common that you need to keep in mind:

Basically, a fly reel is nothing more than a place to keep your line. Period.

Oh, sure, reels have drag systems and high capacity spools and ball bearings, but, in the end, they are used because it’s hard to store 20 yards or so of fly line and another couple hundred yards of backing in your pocket without it getting tangled. But, really, the basic function of a fly reel is to hold your line in an organized manner.

Now, that being said, reels designed for large fish do require an effective drag system. Reels for most freshwater applications and many saltwater uses don’t have to have anything more than a rudimentary drag.

“What?” You say, “how can I fight a fish without a drag?” Well, friend, how do you think it was done in the old days before effective drags were developed? It’s simple—you fought the fish by controlling your line by retrieving it or playing it out with your off hand. When a fish took line, you doled it out to it as needed, creating the requisite drag by how tight you held the line. You also retrieved the line by stripping it in by hand. Tension in either direction was metered by your hands as line slipped through them. Obviously this is an iffy proposition when fighting large fish like tarpon and billfish. But that’s they way it was done, once upon a time.

For many of you experienced anglers, especially the older ones, you’ve played your fish by hand more than once and still do whenever reasonable. For you new ones it’s considered old school, which makes it “classical,” which makes it proper, again—when possible.

Okay, all that being kept in mind, how do you select a good reel that won’t cost you a fortune?

1. Buy a name brand. Name brand reels (and rods) can be trusted more so than off-brands for one simple reason: the maker has a name to protect and will not turn out a piece of junk just to make a buck. A good, entry-level reel will benefit the maker because a satisfied customer is more likely to by the same brand when it’s time to upgrade. Call Orvis if you don’t believe me.

2. Buy an exposed rim reel. Even though you may not be able to rely on the drag, you can apply palm pressure to the spool to supplement it. Drag can be increased or decreased as necessary with little effort. Note high-end reels: for the most part, they have exposed rims for that very purpose in spite of having the best drag systems known to man.

3. If buying aluminum, buy machined, not stamped. Stamped aluminum reels can warp and will bend if dropped. Stamped spools are prone to bending because they don’t really have the material strength to support themselves. Stamped reels can also get out-of-round if over-stressed. Only the smallest reels can get away with stamped spools, but always go for a cast or machined body.

4. Buy a reel that will readily hold the line and backing you need. An undersized reel will only cut down on the backing you need to effectively fight a fish by hand.

5. Buy quality, not glitz. The fish don’t care what color your reel is, neither should you if you are trying to buy wisely. If you are drawn to a more expensive reel because of its fancy coloration, spend that extra money on a better reel! “A fool and his money are soon parted” is a truism.

6. Take pride in your new-found ability to fight a fish by hand. When fighting a fish, let it take line as it needs it; don’t keep a death grip on the line, but meter the drag gently. Let your rod absorb shock. Let the line run when the fish goes on a hard run then gradually increase pressure. When the fish jumps, give it slack, “Bow to the King,” as we say in tarpon fishing. As your line goes slack, retrieve it quickly enough to prevent the hook from coming loose. Maintain constant tension without risking your tippet and your fish will succumb just as though you fought him off the reel. Or not.

Read more by this author at: http://www.EdwardMaurer.com