Newlands Horseshoe Walk

Though normally a lone walker on this occasion I was accompanied by an old friend George.  We had been friends for many years and on some of my more adventurous long distance walks George had rendered support along many of the routes. He had asked me many times to let him accompany me and on this occasion I relented!

The trip over the Pennines had been completed in brilliant sunshine and, even at six o'clock in the morning, the temperature was already over 60 and still rising. Wonderful!

Passing by Keswick  we entered the Newlands Valley and negotiated the tight lanes between Braithwaite and our starting point at Little Town. The views over the Lake District from high up over Newlands were going to be fantastic.

After a little trouble finding the path when leaving the car park near Chapel Bridge we were on our way. The track took us up a saddle between Cat Bells on our left and Bull Crag on Maiden Moor to our right. It was a tough uphill pull from the start and George was finding the going tough. The sun was already doing its work and we both shed a layer of clothing as we climbed. The temperature now was well over 70 degrees and still climbing! The views were extremely exciting and so we climbed onto the saddle and then tracked south past Trap Knotts to Bull Crag. It proved impossible on this stretch not to look back, the views to Derwent Water, Keswick, Skiddaw and Blencathra are some of the best there are in the Lake District (see relevant NW Lake District OS Maps). Every time I stopped on the heave up to Bull Crag on the crest of Maiden Moor I looked back...again and again and again. I couldn't get enough.

Eventually I had to leave the ecstatic view behind as passing Bull Crag took it from me. Now there was a walk to resume and what a walk. The next two miles were a delightful easy stroll across the ridge between Maiden Moor and High Spy. We were walking on exposed ground at an altitude just under 200 feet  but it was roasting, 75 and still climbing! Minimal effort was needed now and we soon reached High Spy.

George, now looking like a boiled lobster, pointed to the drop down to Dalehead Tarn and the steep climb from there to Dale Head top. The look on his face was a picture, utter disbelief coupled with an extremely pained expression!  All the way down he grumbled, cursing me for not warning him of this "suicide" mission and swearing vengeance. As we got to the tarn we were both sweltered and the water was so inviting it didn’t take a lot of persuasion for both of us to strip off and have a brief skinny dip. The water initially took our breath away but gradually settled down to an acceptable level. Still five minutes was enough. We dressed quickly, keeping an eye open for possible intruders, the sun having dried us off very rapidly.

The sun blazed down and the temperature soared, it must have been 90 degrees , the hottest day I have ever walked in.

Suitably refreshed the haul up to Dale Head was completed in silence. Sitting by the cairn enjoying our sandwiches the view back down the valley towards Newtown was spectacular, it's one of my favourite views of all.

The view southwards was equally spectacular with views of the Honister Pass with Haystacks, High Crag, High Stile and Red Pike. we could even see Pillar, my favourite Lakel;and peak.  To the west was Buttermere. The Scafells could be seen too. It was a fantastic mountain spotting moment.

After leaving Dale Head there was a exciting section along Hindscarth Edge (Hindscarth is a impressive mountain, a central spur in the horseshoe and an option on the walk) and then along Littledale Edge which took us on towards our final mountain, Robinson. Despite the term Edge neither Hindscarth nor Littledale offer any problems - the band is broad. The final section of Littledale Edge also provided us with our third and final climb of the day, a tough little clamber of 550 feet over half a mile.  More sights were provided to us at Robinson. Now we could see Crummock Water and Loweswater on the western edge of the park. After a short rest  we left Robinson and entered the most exciting phase of the walk. A steep descent and on a couple of occasions we had to shimmy down the mountain on our backsides. It was exciting for me, (not a word George  would use and he did mention when looking back that he would have never climbed up the route) less so for George but never technically.

After the thrills of the scramble from Robinson the walk quickly loses it's mountainous feel as High Snab Bank is reached. The walking is now on grassy slopes and not craggy rocks. Views are still pleasant but with lost height not so extensive. The horseshoe, earlier below us now rose above as we dropped of  High Snab Bank to follow a lane to Low High Snab. After the buildings of High Snab the track became tarmac and we continued along the road past Gilbrow Wood to reach Little Town Chapel. We admired the building which according to a notice was previously a school house. I can't imagine it was ever filled to capacity - this is the quietest of valleys. After the chapel we were soon back at the car, our fantastic walk done.

It was such a relief to change into fresh clothes and socks. Taking my boots off I could pore the sweat out that had accumulated in the extreme temperatures. Our shirts and underware were saturated with sweat and it was wonderful to dispose of the evil smelling apparel.

Changed, into the car, home. Before dropping George off at home we called in at our favourite real ale hostelry and Ken, the Manager, served up a couple of pints of his finest. He gave us a quizzical look as he did so! "I hope you two are only having the one" he said "You look like a couple of illegal immigrants and you stink to high heaven. I’ll loose too much business if you say so sup up and be off" he said. Enough said, the pint was wonderful and, looking at George I could see Ken's point of view. He was burnt a deep brown and he really did have a hum about him.

As a foot note, George never again asked to join me on a walk though he often remembered the occasion and waxed lyrical about it's virtues - time is great healer!