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Sailing the Saronic Gulf

As far as history goes the Saronic Gulf and surrounding areas were always under the influence and domination of Athens. During the time of Alexander the Great, the Hellenistic period and the Roman occupation the whole area prospered. During the Byzantine period the area declined and the Turkish occupation from 1453 to 1821 saw the situation worsen. Athens became a small town of no more than 30,000 citizens. Only the island Hydra Island prospered as it enjoyed semi independence within the Ottoman Empire.

Greece gained its independent status from Turkey in the 19th century and Athens became the capital of the newborn country. This bought about a change of fortune for the city but the rest of the area remained depressed until with the recent development of tourism some prosperity is now enjoyed.

It is difficult to generalise about weather patterns within the area. In the summer months the north usually sees the Meltemi from the NNE – NE. But unlike the rest of the Aegean it is by no means guaranteed and if it does not blow winds are usually light and from the south. The prevailing wind in the south of the area is from the SE and it will blow from midday before calming in the evening. It usually does not exceed force 5. There are limited problems with gusts from high land. Astrous on the Peloponnisos is renowned for a katabatic wind at night. It gets up quickly from calm conditions and can blow a force 7 for up to 6 hours.

The Attic coast goes from the Corinthian canal in the west to Ak Sounian in the east. Over 50% of the countries industry is around the capital and inevitably much of this is on or near the coast. To be blunt much of this area is unattractive and polluted and unless you are intent on seeing the capital there is no reason to visit the area.

Zea Marina lies to the SE of the large commercial port of Piraeus. Care is needed with the sheer volume of shipping to be found in the area. Once inside the harbour you will be directed to a berth normally in the outer harbour. Shelter is better with the inner harbour but this is normally full. There is water and electric on all berths. All provisions can be obtained and there is a cosmopolitan choice of restaurants.

Mounikhias lies to the east of Zea. The Royal Hellenic Yacht Club runs it and foreign yachts are not always welcome. It is advisable to contact them before arrival to ensure a space is available.

Faliron lies further to the east. Yachts can go bow or stern to where directed in Flisvos Marina. Water and electricity is available on the pontoons and fuel can be delivered. There is good shopping and plenty of Tavernas in the town

Kalamaki lies just over 2 miles to the SE of Mounikhias. Yachts can use Alimos Marina where they go bow or stern to the western mole or wherever there is room. Shelter is excellent in any conditions. Water and electricity can be connected. Shopping for provisions is good and there are a few tavernas along the coast road.

Gilfadha has no less than four marinas. The first travelling east from Athens in number 4. Yachts go bow or stern to where directed. The moorings are laid and tailed to the quay. There is good all round shelter. There is water and electric on every berth and fuel can be delivered. The town of Gilfadha provides good shopping and there are many tavernas. This is one of the nicer marinas on the coast the drawback being that it lies below the flight path of Athens airport and in consequence it is noisy. The other 3 marinas are private although there may be some berths available in number 3. Once again all lie directly under the flight path to the airport and are very noisy.

Athens can be visited with ease from any of the marinas on this coast. The city is built around the famous Acropolis. There are several temples and a museum displays all the important finds that have been made around the Acropolis. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus theatre was built next to Acropolis for the playwrights such as Sophocles and Euripides to present their dramas or comedies. The theatre is still in use today and allows artists from all over the world to perform their crafts. Agora was the place where the Athenians gathered for voting, chatting and in general presenting their opinion about the public issues of the day. Orators and philosophers like Plato and Aristotelis spent a lot of their time here. The Temple of Poseidon, at the very end of Cape Sounio, was dedicated to the god of the Sea, Poseidon. A yachtsman can visit the temple by anchoring in the small sheltered bay next to the temple's cliffs and then walk to the monument.

There is a marina at Vouliagmeni. Yachts can go bow or stern to with laid moorings tailed to the quay. Shelter is in general good but strong southerlies will produce some swell that makes the harbour uncomfortable. There is water and electric on all berths and fuel on the quay. There are tavernas and shops nearby and most provisions can be obtained. This was the first marina to be built in Greece and the setting is attractive. On the downside prices are on the high side.

The small harbour of Varkiza lies further to the south. Yachts can go bow or stern to on the inside of the outer mole or inside the basin if space is available. The bottom is a mix of sand, rock and weed and the holding is not good. The basin provides good shelter but the outer mole is exposed to the Meltemi. Water can be found on the quay and fuel can be delivered. There are shops and tavernas nearby.

There is an anchorage at Sounion just under the cape where yachts can get some shelter from the Meltemi. The bottom is sand and weed and is poor holding. And that completes the Attica coast.

Ken Jones

Ken Jones runs a Sailing Site.
More info on Yacht Charter here
Other Marine Services in Greece here.

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