New Frontiers: Crossing the Laos Cambodian Border Veun Kham / Dong Kralor

The Laos / Cambodian border has been open for several years now and crossing has been getting easier lately. A few years ago if you were travelling to Cambodia you would have needed a Visa beforehand, but recently Visas have been made available on arrival if travelling from Laos to Cambodia, if you are coming to Laos from Cambodia however, make sure you have your Laos Visa beforehand as no visas are currently available at the border.

There are a few ways to cross the Laos / Cambodian border; some cheap, some convenient and of course all an experience. It is a little confusing though as there are two Laos immigration checkpoints one at Veun Kham and one at Dong Kralor, if you depart Laos at Veun Kham you will have to drive about 4km to the Cambodian checkpoint at Dong Kralor the Laos and Cambodian checkpoints at Dong Kralor are about 100m apart as well. The road however is all sealed now and doesn’t take long at all but the process is a little confusing.

When crossing the border the immigration police usually charge $1 US for the privilege of you having your passport stamped, this applies to both the Laos and Cambodian side. I guess you can’t really blame them as they are only making about $30 US per month as a salary. Maybe the Cambodians charging $2 US on Public Holidays is pushing it a little far though. It would be a good idea to have some small $US bills with you and of a couple of photos if you are applying for a Cambodian Visa.

Currently there are no public buses running this route although this will probably change in the near future with the opening of the bridge at Strung Treng. There is also no need to cross the Mekong by boat any more. The road is all sealed to Phnom Penh and a journey that used to take two days can now be done in a third of the time. The border however is still undeveloped and consists of just a couple of wooden shacks with a couple of guards waiting to stamp your passport. Try not to just turn up at the border as you may have to hire a car or you may just end up stuck at the border if there are no vehicles there. If you do just turn up try to get there in the morning as arriving early would give you more chance of arranging transport.

If you are travelling by private transport, it couldn’t be easier as the guide or driver should take care of everything. This is of course the easiest way as you will be travelling in comfort in an air conditioned vehicle, there will be a brief stop at the border to stamp your passport and if you are transferring vehicles or carrying on through in the same vehicle it will be a really comfortable experience.

There is organised shared transport available, where you buy a ticket with a guesthouse or travel agent in Laos or Cambodia. If you are travelling this way it is best to probably buy a ticket with a travel agency as this will avoid confusion and problems; which can arise through buying tickets at a guesthouse. Generally you are transferred to the border in 15 or 22-seat minibus’s and then transferred to the Laos or Cambodian’s contact at the border for onward travel. From the Pakse and the Islands in Laos it is possible to reach Phnom Penh in one day and vica versa, currently it is not possible to reach Siem Reap in one day though. This transport although probably the cheapest and quickest is relatively uncomfortable as conditions maybe a little cramped on the bus and long distances are involved. Sometimes however, they’re maybe little other choice! If you would like to travel by boat from the Laos border to Strung Treng or further to Kratie you would have to arrange this with a travel agent, or let them know with as much notice as possible so they can arrange a group to cut costs.

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