Rememberance Day on Great Gable

Setting off at six o'clock on a freezing November morning in the dark for the drive over the A66 is not a thing I would normally contemplate but for a number of years I had made the pilgrimage to attend the service held annually on Great Gable on the Sunday nearest to remembrance day  the 11th November at 11 a.m. On this occasion there was sleet in the air and a cold northerly wind was blowing.

Over the Bowes Moors the sleet turned into a full blown snow storm and progress was slow and precarious. The longer the journey took unnerved me as I considered how I would get home on the return journey. Nevertheless I continued and eventually arrived at Seathwaite Farm and after great difficulty found a spot to park.

Changing into full winter gear I set off through the farm buildings to the foot of  Sourmilk Gill. The steep climb and scramble, normally trying became a major obstacle as the snow continued to fall, blowing horizontally in the strong winds.

Following the Gill I eventually reached the Seathwaite slabs and found a bit of shelter to recover. After a short while I recommenced the walk, initially over level ground as I rounded Base Brown via Gillercomb.  Soon after passing Gillercomb Head the climbing resumed  up to the intersection of the path from Honister and Brandreth. As I climbed the numbers making the same trek, all heading for the pinnacle of Great Gable increased, and soon the numbers reached well over three figures as walkers converged from various starting points.

Walkers formed a long snake across the fell and up to the peak of Green Gable though in the conditions it was difficult to see more than 30 or 40 yards. The snow had eased somewhat to everyone's relief though the drop down to Windy Gap was fraught with danger as the winds funnelled down over the gap threatening to blow everyone off their feet. Indeed some resorted to hands and knees to progress across the gap.

The scramble thereafter in the cold and snow covered rocks up the gap to the summit plateau was long and arduous though being in the middle of a large throng helped to keep up morale. Eventually I reached the plateau and was once again amazed at how many walkers had made the effort on this special day. Troups of boy scouts, a battalion of army cadets, octogenarians and a multitude of dogs were already waiting in anticipation and in the midst of the throng stood the Padre, dressed in white cassock and hiking boots.

The cassock flapped frantically in the winds which howled over the summit and people, sometimes complete strangers, huddled together to retain some heat.  As 11 o'clock neared the wind appeared to drop and a peace and serenity seemed to settle over the mountain. Dogs stopped barking, people stopped talking and peace reigned. At the chosen hour the Padre rose and reminded us all why we were there, standing there on the top of a snow capped mountain the Lake District on a cold November morning. His message issued on that cold clear morning reached into us all as we stood in silence to remember the brave. It seemed even nature respected the moment, stillness and peace were the order of the moment.

All to soon the moment had passed for another year and the noise of voices once more rose as walkers turned to commence the return journey.  The sound of hundreds of pairs of boots pounding out across the plateau is a sound that, once heard, you never forget. Most people headed back the way they had arrived but I chose to take the long downward stepped path to Styhead Tarn. The path, stilled covered in snow which had formed a hard crust in the cold wind, crunched underfoot making progress slow and difficult.  An accident in the making! I eventually made the base and headed down to Seathwaite via Styhead Gill and Greenhow Knott to Stockley Bridge. Following Grains Gill I eventually arrived back at the car.

This had been a very hard and tiring walk in very trying conditions yet, as always, the service on Great Gable had given me a great lift. I was tired but felt peaceful.

In view of the long drive home over Bowes Moors, which turned out a lot better than I thought, I drove to Keswick and partook of some fish and chips at the Old Keswickian - welcome sustenance to give me strength for the journey ahead.

Though only some 5.5 miles long with 850 metres of climbs this walk can in summer be an enjoyable walk but be aware, in winter conditions you need to be well equipped, fit and respectful of nature.

If you've never ventured on to Great Gable on Remembrance Sunday I can recommend it, you don't have to be religious top appreciate and partake in honouring the men and women who sacrificed their all so that we can enjoy the freedom to roam the mountains.

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