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The happy couple has decided to create their own engagement and wedding rings to celebrate their unique relationship. Their first decision, which type of metal the rings should be made of, has already been made (see Part I). The next step is to choose diamonds or other stones to be fitted into the design.
For many people, the quality and value of diamonds are things that they know very little about, and they are understandably afraid of being ripped off. On the other hand, they want to act like they know what to look for. To that end, here are a few tips on choosing the right diamond, as described by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS), the main grading institutes in the United States.
Each important factor in diamond choice, known collectively as the Four Cs (cut, color, clarity and carat weight), is discussed below.
The Cut
The cut of a diamond is probably the most important factor to consider when buying a diamond. It is the cut that determines how much light is refracted (scintillation), which in turn determines the sparkle and brilliance that we see. Diamond cuts are graded by the GIA and AGS, with a report attached to each diamond; the report should come with the diamond on purchase.
A well-cut diamond will have sparkle and "fire," or rainbow colors, throughout, without any dark spots or dull, glassy areas. If the cut is too shallow, the light will refract, or bend, out the bottom of the stone. If cut too deeply, the light will bend out the side. Ideal cuts are ones in which the light enters the stone and bounces back straight up. Sophisticated measuring devices can measure the levels of brightness, fire, and scintillation.
Polish and symmetry are considerations that can affect the sparkle of a diamond, and these factors are also part of the grading system.
The Color
Some diamonds have natural coloration that acts like a filter, preventing the full color spectrum from reflecting through the stone. The less color in a diamond, the more brilliant the prismatic fire. Color is graded from D-J in quality jewelry, with D being colorless. Grades I and J have a slight yellowish color, but may retain a good value with a many-faceted Round or Princess cut. The color of the setting can also enhance the brilliance of slightly colored diamonds; yellow gold looks best with I-J, and white gold or platinum can nicely set off D-H.
The Clarity
Clarity refers to the number of inclusions (scratches, trace minerals, or other impurities) in the stone. These may affect the beauty of a large diamond, but with a good cut, inclusions will probably be unnoticeable.
The Carat Weight
The carat (K) is the unit of measure used to describe the size of a diamond or stone. A one-carat diamond is not half the size of a two-carat diamond; viewed from the top, there is hardly any difference. Yet a two-carat stone is more than twice the cost, because it is more difficult to find and mine larger stones. Also consider how large the diamond will appear in terms of its setting and the hand of the person who will wear it.
Hopefully, once you've found a selection of diamonds within your budget, this information will help you determine which stone to choose.
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